From The Pink Room

Sarah Barton-King began as a designer of shoes, bags, and scarves, which were sold through luxury stores around the world. She also opened her own shop The Pink Room in London’s Notting Hill. Now she’s entered the world of fragrance, through two fragrances inspired by French literature.

Parfum No 1 was inspired by the writings of Marcel Proust. Here is the charge that Sarah gave to perfumer Guy Robert:

Imagine Marcel Proust having tea with his aunt in the garden at about four, As the sun becomes more gentle, the old roses start to give off their bouquet, Lime cuts across, taking away the cloying sweetness, some bergamot to give a mellow richness also some jasmine, a little violet and vanilla for the petite Madeleine. Not too heavy, not too rich.

The fragrance that Guy Robert created is an utterly feminine, romantic fragrance with the following notes:

Top notes: citrus with fruity nuances;
Middle notes: rich floral tones of jasmine, lily of the valley, and violet.
Base notes: woody, spicy and fruity, with hints of vanilla, moss and musk.

I found the floral notes to be most dominant.


The Pink Room Eau de Parfum POUR TOI

POUR TOI was inspired by Gigi, the ingénue and courtesan-in-training created by Colette (née Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette) and portrayed by Leslie Caron in the movie musical. For this fragrance. For The Pink Room PARFUM FOR TOI, Sarah went to Grasse, the fragrance capital of the world, to collaborate with a master perfumer and blender:

Top notes: Lemon, Blackcurrant, Grapefruit,
Middle Note: Rose, Fleur de Melati, Lily of the Valley
Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla, and White musk.

This fragrance is very citrusy when it is applied, but dries to a floral that’s lighter than Parfum No 1.

Pink Room Parfum No 1 and PARFUM POUR TOI are available through LuckyScent.

More Than a Pretty Face interviews Sam Fine, Part 1


Sam Fine, makeup artist extraordinaire

Some of my questions are based on your 1998 book Fine Beauty, in which you provide your life story. You had planned to become a fashion illustrator. You took a job at a cosmetics counter to supplement your income, and served as an assistant to makeup artists. Naomi Campbell provided you your first major break. You emphasized that your success is due to the many people who supported on your way to becoming the pre-eminent makeup artist that you are.


Fine Beauty by Sam Fine

I will also base my questions on the feature Sam’s Club in the May 2009 issue of Vogue.

1. There is no doubt that mainstream cosmetics lines have greatly expanded their options for women of African origin (I use this term, as “African-American” doesn’t seem to apply to women who were born and live outside the U.S.). Is there still a need for niche cosmetic lines? Is there anything that niche cosmetics line offer that mainstream cosmetics lines still don’t cover?

Niche brands tend to have better shade range and also products with higher pigment, which are what a woman of color truly needs.

2. Would you care to volunteer your thoughts about niche cosmetics lines? The least expensive that I can name are Zuri, Black Radiance, Astarte, and Posner. There’s also Queen Latifah’s Queen Collection for Cover Girl, Iman, Flori Roberts, Nacara (Canada), Fashion Fair, Sleek MakeUp (UK), and blackUp Paris.

I still use these brands on my clients – and probably always will. As I mentioned above, they not only provide great shade range but they also provide great coverage, such as Black Opal’s Flawless Concealer, Iman Cosmetics Eyeshadow in Tiger Eye, to name a few.

3. What do you think about mineral products such as sunscreen and mineral foundations for women of African origin? Many of these products are formulated with titanium oxide and zinc oxide, which can look ashen on darker skin tones. What alternatives do you recommend?

Women of color need more coverage than mineral makeup can really provide. Nevertheless, mineral makeup is great for women who are looking for lighter coverage.

4. What challenges do you face when doing makeup for Hi-Definition TV or other Hi-Def video?

You need to spend more time on skin – but I’m a perfectionist, and tend to spend a lot of time perfecting the skin to create a flawless canvas no matter the situation.

Continue to Part 2:

More Than a Pretty Face interviews Sam Fine, Part 2


Sam’s Club in the May 2009 issue of Vogue

5. In Fine Beauty, you advocated neutral makeup, and in your appearance on CBS Morning News, you still advocate neutral makeup. Yet Liya Kebede and Chanel Iman are wearing vivid blush in the Vogue article. Is the distinction between everyday life and editorial or runway?

Yes, there is definitely a distinction between everyday life and editorial/runway. Editorial and runway give you the freedom to experiment with different, bold looks- looks that might not work for the everyday. For example, translating extreme rosy cheeks on the runway might mean using a little colorful eyeliner to brighten your look.

http://cnettv.cnet.com/av/video/cbsnews/atlantis2/player-dest.swf
Watch CBS Videos Online – Sam Fine on CBS Morning News

6. Which do you like best: print, runway, or “real life”? Why?

Definitely real life. I love working on real women- I grew up with a mom and three sisters and I definitely have an appreciation for how makeup translates on a “real woman’s” face. Just like the women in my DVD.


Iman hosts the launch party for Sam Fine’s DVD
L to R: Iman, Sam Fine, Deborah Cox, and Vanessa Williams: “real women”?

7. Do you want to create your cosmetics line? The Vogue article says that you put together custom kits for women. It seems like a logical progression for you to start your own makeup line.

You’ll have to stay tuned!

8. Are you planning to write another book?

Probably not. I’d like to work on expanding into more DVD’s, hopefully touching on everything that I wasn’t able to in the first.

9. It’s been 11 years since Fine Beauty was published. If you were to revise Fine Beauty, what would you change or update? Since you meant to be an illustrator, I think it would be great to include your illustrations. 🙂

I wouldn’t change a thing – I’m just extremely glad that there’s now a different form of media to reach the consumer, which is why I decided to do the DVD!

11. Are there any parting makeup tips that you would like to share with our readers?

Sure- here are some of my favorites.

Using a single layer of tissue, blot the excess oil from foundation, leaving the skin looking more natural and less made-up.

If you can’t find the perfect nude eyeshadow, use a pressed powder that matches your complexion instead.

A light dusting of loose powder over eyebrows makes them appear more natural and prevents them from fading throughout the day.

HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner

There’s some thing exotic about loose kohl powder. Matin said that everyone in his native Afghanistan used surma (kohl) powder to line their eyes and that it remains his favorite product to use. My husband, who grew up in Calcutta, remembers how the Afghan wallahs walked up and down the streets peddling surma and hing, a sulfurous natural resin used in cooking (because of its odor, hing is usually cut with rice flour or chickpea flour).


L’Oreal HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner

Now L’Oreal has come out with its HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner. At $12-13, it’s nearly one-third the cost of Guerlain Terracotta Loose Powder Kohl Liner ($34.00), a similar product.

When I first tried L’Oreal HIP Kohl Eyeliner icon, I had a lot of problems with smearing on my lower lids – as though I had some sort of Alice Cooper thing going on. At first, I thought that it might be the Kat Von D Tattoo Concealer that I was using. The Kat Von D Tattoo Concealer has a lot of slip, due to the presence of silicones. I switched to L’Oreal True Match™ Super-Blendable Concealer icon, but had the same problem.

With some experimentation, I learned how to work HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner. Here’s how:

* Stroke the fine-tipped brush on the back of your hand to remove excess.
* Apply. The brush enables you to get right at the root of your lashes.
* To intensify or smudge the line, pick up the pigment on your hand with a chisel-head eyeliner brush, and smudge

You might also use a sealer, but bypass an overpriced product like Paula Dorf Transformer ($19-20) in favor of La Femme Cake Eyeliner Sealer ($3.50) through makeupmania.com.

Now that I’ve gotten the hang of using HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner, I’m enjoying using it.

You may find HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner at big box stores (Target, Walmart), supermarkets, drugstores (particularly The Big Three), and drugstore.com.

Better days


Farrah Fawcett (February 2, 1947 – June 25, 2009) on her top-selling pin-up (1976)

http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=888079235932183632&hl=en&fs=true
“I want you back”
The Jackson Five featuring Michael Jackson (August 29, 1958 – June 25, 2009) on The Ed Sullivan Show (1970)

“Pushin’ Too Hard”
Casey Kasem introduces Sky Saxon (d. June 25, 2009) and The Seeds (1967)

Chesapeake Bay Candle

I was pleased to receive a travel set from Chesapeake Bay Candle. The set contains a soy wax candle in travel tin, a fragrance diffuser kit (silkscreened glass jar, reeds, and fragrance oil) and a bag of scented stones in a silkscreened glass vessel. It comes in an elegant presentation box fastened by a ribbon. My travel set, which came in Green Tea Jasmine, was so fragrant, I could smell it with the box closed.


Chesapeake Bay Candle travel set

The travel set is also available in:

Amber Vanilla Hazelnut (gourmand)
Honey Lemon Creme (citrus)
Tonka Bean Fig (fruit)

Other Chesapeake Bay Candle products come in these fragrance groups:

Citrus
Floral
Fruit
Gourmand
Green
Ozonic
Spice
Wood

Browse Chespeake Bay Candle to find out more about products available in the different fragrance groups.

Chesapeake Bay Candle was founded by Mei Xu and David Wang, who created their products in a basement in Annapolis, MD. The couple also founded Blissliving Home, which offers coordinated bedding, home fragrance, and decorative accessories.

It’s a pleasure to learn about lifestyle companies in the area surrounding the DC metro area, where I live.

PS Still trying to get the hang of my digital camera. Did you notice that the dates are wrong?

Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup SPF 15

I’ve been critical of the marketing of so-called mineral cosmetics: in a previous article Mineral Madness, I wrote:

The term “mineral” had referred to loose powders, but now it’s being associated with products such as lipstick, liquid foundation, and pressed powders that contain other ingredients in addition to minerals. Thus, all cosmetics can be considered mineral cosmetics! Be critical, and recognize that “mineral” is just another marketing construct.

Pür Minerals is seizing on the marketing construct of mineral makeup being “pure.” It is a line of pressed powder foundation, blushes, and eye shadows that contain ingredients other than minerals.


Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15

Despite my criticism of the marketing of so-called mineral products, I do like Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15. I took it along with me on my recent trip, in addition to Daniel Chinchilla Flawless Finish Liquid Foundation and Paula’s Choice loose powder (no longer available). I found that Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15 met my needs (particularly coverage of redness on the cheeks) and that I could have done without the last two products and lightened my makeup bag.

One can easily pick up powder from Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15. To apply, I use the tools and techniques recommended by Pür Minerals founder Joli Baker:

I remind everyone that a light dusting of powder will not provide adequate protection from the sun. I wear smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer SPF 15 and Dermaxyl under Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15.

Find out what others say about Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15.

You may find Pür Minerals at Ulta and Dillard’s in the U.S. and Shoppers Drug Mart in Canada.

Rethinking Mally Beauty

After a recent spate of presentations by Mally Roncal on QVC, I began to rethink my opinions about Mally Beauty. I still like the packaging of Mally Beauty products and the beautiful shades of Mally’s Shimmer, Shape & Glow Face System, but the pressed powders are so hard, it’s difficult to pick up color on a brush. I have to scrape powder with my fingernail to pick up color on my brush.

Also, some of Mally’s products outrageously priced. A 4.0 oz bottle of dual-phase eye remover for $25, when you can buy dual-phase eye makeup removers from Neutrogena or Boots Botanicals for less than $10, with more product? A waxy brow pencil for $25, when Revlon ColorStay Brow Enhancer, a comparable product, costs less than $10?

If Mally would reformulate the Mally’s Shimmer, Shape & Glow Face System, I’d be a repeat customer. I’ll pass on the Eye-Opening Brow Boost and Dual Action Makeup Remover.

Vivesana organic sun care

Vivesana Suncare

Vivesana calls itself “the planet’s first 100% natural, 70% organic high performance and baby sunscreen.” It seeks to blend safe, sustainable ingredients with style.

Vivesana provides:

* the first 70% organic baby and high performance sun care on the market.
* the first 100% natural sun care with strong protection SPF (40 & 42)
* the first sun care – as far as it knows – to use exclusively US-grown organics and domestic, sustainable, BPA-free packaging.

Its products include Solar to Polar Baby and Solar to Polar Ultra sunscreens.

It’s no surprise that the active ingredients in Vivesana sun care were titanium dioxide and zinc oxide minerals, both barrier sunscreens. Plant oils and extracts are “carrier” ingredients.

Be prepared: Vivesana sunscreens are as thick as ointment. Its sunscreens are packaged in metal squeeze tubes, which are less common, as companies move to plastic squeeze tubes.

Some might not like the thick consistency and the white cover that Vivesana provides. However, for those people who have sensitive skin and/or who want an organic, natural product that performs and has style, then Vivesana is a very good choice.