Author: Cold Cream 'n' Roses

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Developments in sunscreen technology

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Cosmetics Design Europe is a great resource for developments in cosmetics formulation. Here are three recent articles concerning sunscreen technologies:

SymHelios® 1031
According to the linked article, SymHelios® 1031 prevents a protein called the Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor (AhR) from inducing long term skin damage. UVB rays are said to cause the amino acid tryptophan to form a toxin that binds with AhR to induce the negative effects of exposure to UVB rays. SymHelios® 1031 is not a UV filter and should not take the place of UV filters.

SymHelios® 1031 was developed by the German company Symrise AG. I could not find any evidence that the FDA has approved SymHelios® 1031. Nor do I know of any products containing SymHelios® 1031. If there are independent studies that support or refute Symrise’s claims, please tell me about them.

Solastay S1
Specialty chemicals company Hallstar has launched a new photostabilizer called Solastay S1. Hallstar claims that Solastay S1 enables Octyl methocycinnamate (OMC), a UVB absorber, and Avobenzone, a UVA absorber, to be combined. OMC and Avobenzone are unstable together.

If there are independent studies that support or refute the claims for Hallstar’s claims, please tell me about them.

Nanoparticles
Nanoparticles are one of the most controversial topics in cosmetics formulation. Due to the efforts of the Environmental Working Group and companies marketing natural and organic products, consumers have become scared about the use of nanoparticles in cosmetics. However, NANODERM, a project that involves twelve European universities and institutes, has shown that nanoparticles of titanium dioxide, an active ingredient used in mineral sunblock, do not penetrate the skin. Watch this video featuring Professor Tilman Butz of the University of Leipzig (Germany), who led the NANODERM project.

Mineral sunscreens, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, can look ashen, particularly on deeper skin tones. Micronized titanium dioxide minimizes the ashen appearance.

Want more? Cosmeticsdesign.com has a special edition on sunscreens.

P&G to pull Max Factor from the U.S.

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I was stunned – and saddened – to learn that P&G is discontinuing sale of Max Factor in the U.S.

Stunned, because P&G seemed to be investing so much into the brand, by hiring Gisele to be the face of Max Factor and heavily promoting its Extreme Lash Plumper and Vivid Impact Lipstick (which I think is very good), particularly through TotalBeauty.

Saddened, because we are losing a truly iconic brand. I do not use the term iconic lightly – it’s overused.

Business is business, however. P&G is pulling Max Factor from the U.S. because of poor sales. It’s probably the same reason that distribution of Max Factor was limited to Wal-Mart and a few other outlets (Ulta), but not to the Big Three of drugstore chains: CVS, Walgreen’s, and Rite-Aid.

I agree with SF Beauty Examiner Mira Torres that tastes have changed. Women no longer want the full coverage of Pan-Stik and Pan-Face. Then, as Ms. Torres rightly points out,

Max Factor’s downfall may be that it tried to stay “hollywood glamour,” even if the term “Hollywood” (with the train-wreck tabloids and and reality world mayhem) has become kind of a joke.


As for me, I had to reproduce this image of Elizabeth Taylor advertising Pan-Stik that graced Ms. Torres’s article:

Elizabeth Taylor for Max Factor’s Pan-Stik

This is Liz from the 50s: pixie cut; dramatic, arched eyebrows, and painted lips. Now many, including my husband, might see Elizabeth Taylor as the ultimate train-wreck (multiple marriages, her friendship with Michael Jackson), but she’s kept people fascinated for well over 60 years: no mean feat.

If anyone epitomized the “Hollywood Glamour” that Max Factor promoted, it’s Liz.

Sunscreen ingredients

Cold Cream 'n' Roses

You know about the need to wear sunscreen. You know about the need for a sunscreen that protects you from both UVA and UVB rays. But are you confused about sunscreen ingredients and how they work? What about proprietary names, such as Helioplex (Neutrogena), and trademarked ingredients, such as Meroxyl FX (L’Oreal) and Parsol® 1789?

dermatology.about.com answers these questions and more. Heather Brannon, MD is the “guide” for dermatology.about.com. While Dr. Brannon is not a dermatologist (she is a family practice doctor), she has a definite interest in dermatologic topics.

Dr. Brannon’s article Proper Use of Sunscreen describes the various kinds of ultraviolet radiations and classifies sunscreen ingredients as either physical barriers (for example, titanium oxide) or radiation absorbers, in addition to discussing appropriate application of sunscreen. Her article Sunscreen Information – Information About UVA Sunscreen Ingredients describes various UVA radiation absorbers, including Helioplex, Meroxyl FX, and Parsol® 1789.

Given the importance of wearing sunscreen, these two articles are must-reads.

In a subsequent article, I will mention recent innovations in sunscreen technology.

How to wear bright eyeshadow

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Who doesn’t like makeovers and before and afters? Here’s a step-by-step tutorial on how to wear bright eyeshadow:

TotalBeauty.com
Real-Woman Tutorial: How to Wear Bright Eyeshadow

Yes, you can wear teal shadow without looking garish — just follow these steps

Real-Woman Tutorial: How to Wear Bright Eyeshadow

This tutorial is designed to show you step-by-step how to wear bright colored eyeshadow (which is doable even if you have small or Asian eyes). Brightly colored eyes can dress up a look when paired with a neutral or nude face, or accessorize an entire outfit. Just make sure you know how to wear it before rocking it in the office.

See how-to

For my part, I think that Asians and women with deeper skintones wear bright eyeshadows better than their lighter complexioned sisters.

Living Proof No Frizz hair care

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The Washington, DC metro area is infamous for its humid weather: I’m surprised that TotalBeauty didn’t name Washington, DC among its 13 Worst Hair Cities.

In humid weather, my hair frizzes and becomes unmanageable. I’ve tried traditional silicone-based products, such as John Frieda’s Frizz Ease® serum, but silicone-based products weigh down my hair and don’t provide significant relief from frizz.

I received some LivingProof NoFrizz hair care products, which are silicone-free. NoFrizz did the trick where silicone-based products failed. My hair stays smooth in humid weather.


LivingProof NoFrizz hair products

How do No Frizz products work? The Beauty Brains (my favorite source for evaluating beauty claims, along with Paula Begoun) write,

Living Proof uses a type of chemical known as a PolyfluoroEster (or PFE for short) to smooth the hair shaft and prevent moisture from being absorbed. … But PFEs (which are Teflon-like compounds) are VERY good at lowering surface tension, and so in theory they could provide the three main benefits [frizz prevention, dirt repellancy, and shine and color enhancement] that Living Proof claims on their website …

Read more from The Beauty Brains article Are Living Proof No Frizz Products Good For Curly Hair? Also read the review Living Proof NO-FRIZZ Keeps Frizz From Frazzling You! (love that title) by Advice Sister Alison.

You may find Living Proof No Frizz hair products at Sephora stores and Sephora.com.

Belegenza Extraordinary Hair Care

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Belegenza Extraordinary Hair Care advertises its products as silicone-free, paraben-free, phthalate-free, sulfate-free, mineral oil-free, petrolatum-free, and urea-free. Its web site focuses on silicone, particularly its occlusive properties, in conventional hair products. Belegenza argues that silicone “suffocates” the scalp and has published testimonials from customers who claimed that their hair began growing out by using its products. See my article on silicones.

When I try products described as natural and organic, I want to find out if they work as well as conventional products. To compare, I checked the labels of shampoos and conditioners from L’Oreal and Joico. L’Oreal and Joico had some silicones and parabens, and if there were oils, the oils were plant oils.

Styling products, particularly pomades, often contain petrolatum. I don’t use styling products. My hairdresser is obsessive about the hair cut and eschews styling products, which he calls “glue.”

Ingredient lists aside, how well do Belegenza products perform? I tried GrowOut Shampoo and Strengthener, EnCore Leave-in Conditioner, and RoMANce Deep Conditioning Treatment. The shampoo is milder than conventional shampoos, so I do “rinse and repeat.” I apply RoMANce Deep Conditioning Treatment and cover my hair with a shower cap while I’m shaving or soaking in the tub. I use the EnCore Leave-in Conditioner, when I’m pressed for time.

Am I dreaming, or is it real, that my hair is bouncier and looks more voluminous after using Belegenza? Whatever, I like the results and I’ll continue using Belegenza products.

Cold Cream 'n' Roses

TotalBeauty.com
Get Your Best Lashes and Lips

Readers and Bloggers share their favorite tricks for playing up our flirtiest features

Get Your Best Lashes and Lips

Oh, those eyes! Those lips! Keep all eyes fixed on your gorgeous face with these alluring tips and tricks from TotalBeauty.com’s glam-savvy readers and bloggers.

See tricks

TotalBeauty bloggers provide tips on lips and eyes in conjunction with “sneak peak” reviews of MAX Factor Vivid Impact Lipcolor and MAX Factor 2000 Calorie Extreme Lash Plumper Mascara.

Cold Cream 'n' Roses
Total Beauty Web Tour

The Informed Makeup Maven raves about Stila’s #5 brush, Covergirl Smoothers Pressed Powder and Bobbi Brown’s Custom Palettes.

Visit The Beauty Couch to enter the Softlips PURE Giveaway for a chance to win one of four Softlips PURE organic lip balms. Contest expires May 12th at 12am EST.

Beauty Anonymous takes a look at Lavshuca’s new Lip Gloss.

Beauty Strokes was so pleased with the success of the previous giveaway of its brush collection at More Than a Pretty Face that it’s provided a complete set of its Mineral Optics brushes for a new giveaway! Mineral Optics brushes are great for applying loose mineral powders. The prize consists of six brushes, including three optic brushes with natural and synthetic bristles, and a nylon brush roll. Enter now!

Meilily reviews and swatches Gabriel Cosmetics Lipstick with 100% natural ingredients.

Monique at Beauty Girl Musings is giving away 15 (yes, fifteen) Beautyfix 2 kits! Click here to enter!

Hurry on over to The Makeup Divas blog and enter to win Barielle Sugar Rush Nail Polish Collection.

Fabulous Over Forty talks with dermatologist Dr. Doris Day about what we really need for skincare.

Check out Beauty in Real Life for a fabulous neuLash and Anastasia giveaway!

Head on Over to A Little More Beautiful to check out the Great Skin for Spring/Summer series as well as Tips to Prevent and reduce the signs of aging!

Girl-Woman-Beauty-Brains-Blog has the answers to your Mother’s Day Gift dilemma.

Beauty Banter teaches you how to get Kate Hudson, Katie Holmes and Beyonce hair!

Boutique Flair reviews the Sunsilk Captivating Curls line.

Alex McCord, Luanne Delesseps, Ramona Singer and Jill Zarin from the Real Houseives of NYC, Mario Cantone, Simon Doonan, and Allure’s Linda Wells are all in the Advice Sisters Post of the Cosmetics Executive Women (CEW) Awards with links to all the winning products.

eye4style is giving away a gorgeous pair of Current Elliott Boyfriend Jeans. Enter now to win!

Daily Dose of Coffee is giving away five copies of the tip-filled anti-aging book How Not to Look Old by Charla Krupp. Enter now for your chance to win!

Beautè Noire Blog gives Halle Berry’s new haircut two thumbs up!

image and style news dishes on all the 2009 summer makeup collection

Addicted to Lipstick Shows us swatches from the Mac A Rose Romance Collection.

Beauty Junkies Unite shares supermodel Alek Wek’s look by Lancome from the Met Ball!

Beauty411 shares the details on the new Guerlain Terracotta Mineral Collection for summer bronze beauty!

LA Pretty is giving away a pair of lucy activewear short shorts. Pants are so 2008!

Beauty Blogging Junkie scored an exclusive interview with Star Trek Makeup Department Head Mindy Hall. Click hereto read it!

Spoiled Pretty is partnering with Bath & Body Works for a giveaway – to protect you from Swine Flu. Three winners will receive Anti-Bacterial Gentle Foaming Soap, Foaming Sanitizer, and PocketBac Deep Cleansing Hand Gel.

Butterflydiary is giving away a bottle of Lancome’s Genifique and Charla Krupp’s book “How Not to Look Old” to one incredibly lucky winner.

Hot Beauty Health is sharing the best beauty products from Self Magazine’s Healthy Beauty Awards.

Silicones

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In planning stories about Belegenza Extraordinary Hair Care and LivingProof No Frizz hair products, it became evident that I should address the use of silicones in hair and cosmetics products.

What are the characteristics of silicones?

In her ingredient dictionary, Paula Begoun describes silicone in this way:

… The unique fluid properties of silicone give it a great deal of slip, and in its various forms it can feel like silk on the skin, impart emolliency, and be a water-binding agent that holds up well, even when skin becomes wet.

Silicones 101, an article from the Coarse Hair Diary blog, notes that silicones build up on the hair and prevent moisture from entering. Dimethicone, an article from Christopher Drummond’s blog, notes the occlusive (barrier-forming) properties of dimethicone, which is a type of silicone. Essortment, in its article, How to control frizz in curly hair, notes that silicone seals hair.

Silicones give face primers their slip, and I’ve become a believer in face primers. Unlike Christopher and some people who have commented on his article, I have not have problems with breakouts. I suspect that’s because I apply primer to my cheeks, which are not prone to breakouts.

On the other hand, silicones have not worked for me in preventing frizz, which is a problem for me in DC’s humid climate. In addition, silicones weigh my hair down, no matter how little I use. Some say that using silicones leads to hair loss. I’ve been experiencing hair loss, but I don’t know if silicones are to blame: maybe it’s “The Change.” (I don’t know whether to laugh or cry)

Both Belegenza and LivingProof No Frizz are formulated without silicones. In articles planned for next week, I’ll review products from these brands.