Category: Beauty

What’s New in Beauty – May 12, 2005: Yue-Sai, Costco, Webby Awards, cosmetic buying trends

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China’s Yue-Sai goes global: L’Oreal will launch Yue-Sai, the Chinese cosmetics brand, first in Asia and then in Europe and North America. Yue-Sai was founded by Chinese-American TV presenter Yue-Sai Kan. L’Oreal acquired Yue-Sai from the Lancaster Group in January 2004.

Costco developing its own cosmetics brand – Costco, the Seattle-based wholesale buyers’ club that can supply you from cradle to grave, is developing its own cosmetics brand in partnership with Borghese. The Style Page has previously written on cosmetics brands exclusive to a store chain: IsaDora (Walgreen’s), Lumene (CVS), Per Una (UK’s Marks & Spencer), No 7 (UK’s Boots), and good skin, American Beauty, and Flirt! (Kohl’s).

The Webby Award winners have been announced: in the Beauty and Cosmetics category, the winner was comeclean.com, a web site for method‘s holiday gift set. Its gimmick was providing a place to read confessions and post confessions to “come clean.” The People’s Choice winner was the Mary Kay personal consultant site – no surprise there.

Finally, the article Specialty format steals department store beauty dollar from Cosmeticsdesign.com discusses how specialty and discount stores are taking market share for cosmetics purchases from traditional department stores. The merger of the major U.S. department store chains – Federated (Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s) and May (Lord & Taylor, Robinson’s-May, Hecht’s, Famous-Barr, etc.) will result in fewer consumer choices among department stores.

The Style Page notes that one challenge is that salespeople at department stores represent and work on behalf of a particular cosmetics brand. If department stores and their suppliers (notably Estee Lauder Companies) want to win back market share, they should scrap the current system in favor of salespeople/advisors who can advise on several brands and provide central checkouts for cosmetics purchases.

Update: Soon after I published this post, I found that Shoppers Drug Mart, a drugstore chain in Canada, is negotiating with Estee Lauder Companies to distribute various Estee Lauder brands through their stores. More evidence about the change in buyers’ habits.

A Mary Kay beauty consultant questions my comments on the Webby awards site

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The Style Page received this email from a Mary Kay beauty consultant concerning the comments on Jouer Cosmetics’s web site that I entered on the Webby Awards web site:

“I saw your comment on your webby nomination. Just out of curiosity, why didn’t you say those exact same things about the Mary Kay site? Did you check it out and compare? You should. Thanks.”

To which I wrote back:

“I am very impressed by the interactive makeover tools that the Mary Kay company provides to its beauty advisors.

I voted for the Jouer Cosmetics site, as its side-by-side makeovers for women of different complexions demonstrate Jouer’s claim that its colors work for all women. I also use Jouer Cosmetics – I like the product and both the concept and execution of its customizable palette. For more, please visit my blog entry, April 2005: What’s New in Beauty – Webby nominees for Beauty sites announced.”

Direct sales is not my favorite way of purchasing cosmetics or any other products, for that matter. The Style Page lists only the corporate site for direct sales companies such as Mary Kay and Avon, and will not list web site for individual sales consultants.

April 2005: What’s New in Beauty – Webby nominees for Beauty sites announced

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The Cosmetic Site published an article Webby nominees for Beauty & Cosmetics listed. The Webby Awards recognizes the best in websites. This is the first year that beauty and cosmetic businesses can compete for the Webby awards. Among the nominees is the web site for Jouer Cosmetics. Jouer states that its colors work for all women, and to prove its claim, the web site features an interactive makeover with four women: a blonde, a Hispanic, an Asian, and a woman of African descent.


Jouer’s interactive makeover

The Jouer Cosmetics website certainly deserves its Webby award nomination. The Style Page reviewed Jouer’s products in its December 12, 2004 entry on this web log. Since that review, I’ve come to appreciate that I can apply Jouer’s products on the run: a tiny mirror is included in the container and no implements are needed – just use your fingers. Right now, I’m wanting Jouer’s Velvet (charcoal gray with shimmer) and Peridot (soft shimmering olive) cream eyeshadows.

WHAT’S NEW in Beauty

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The Style Page gets a lot of requests from small companies selling “natural” bath and body products to list them and finds that it’s difficult to craft a description that will distinguish one company’s products from another’s. For the latest update of the Fragrance page, we’ve found three companies that offer unique spins on bath and body care products:


KölDesign offers bath products with fragrances that appeal to both genders that evoke special locations (El Maroc, Curacao, Bethlehem, and Picnic) and mix-your-own facial masks. In keeping with the unisex appeal, the packaging is minimalist. They’ve since added candles to their product line.

Nadina’s Cremes offers scented body cremes made from coconut oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil and beeswax. The containers are what makes them special. Nadina’s Cremes may be purchased in ceramic jars or beaded tins. I found Nadina’s Cremes at Whole Foods Market. You may also order products in bulk, by the half-gallon or gallon.

Tade is a company based in France that markets products for the home from the Middle East. Its soaps are formulated with olive oil and laurel oil, and its rose and olive soaps look like little pieces of sculpted terra-cotta. I found Tade soaps at Vesta Home in Arlington, VA.

From the Makeup Alley discussion board:
…and a long list here! from acqua di stresa to zents. worth bookmarking, guys. …r/o pls ( )
http://www.thestylepage.com/fragrance.htm

Diana Ross signs up with MAC, finally

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Diana Ross signs up with MAC, finally

MAC Global President, John Demsey, states, “Not only is [Diana Ross] a global style icon but also a timeless and exquisite beauty. As a multi-talented performer who expresses her individuality through fashion and make-up, she’s all that M.A.C admires.”

I’d dispute that Diana Ross is “a timeless and exquisite beauty.” Actually, she’s become pathetic. She reached the heights of her career in 60s with the Supremes and in the 70s and 80s with her solo career. More recently, her career has been plagued by a lot of setbacks and missteps: the end of her marriage, a DUI conviction last year, and the failed “Return to Love” Supremes reunion – if you could call it a “reunion,” as neither Mary Wilson nor Cindy Birdsong, the two surviving Supremes (Florence Ballard died broke years ago) with whom Diana Ross had her biggest 60s hits, agreed to participate.

As far as being “all that M.A.C admires,” this is consistent with M.A.C’s habit of engaging female impersonators like Liza Minnelli and drag queen RuPaul – although RuPaul is more genuine than either Diana Ross or Liza Minnelli.

Review of Jouer Cosmetics

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It seems that every cosmetics company, from prestige brands to Markwins International’s The Color Workshop, have released special edition gift sets or palettes for the holidays. The problem with gift sets or palettes is that while one might find a few shades she really likes, the rest of the shades go unused. That’s why The Style Page prefers singles, and come to think about it, that’s why she wasn’t smittened with American Beauty cosmetics, as it offers eyeshadow duos only – see the posting on Beauty from Kohl’s Department Stores.


Creme eyeshadows from Jouer

Jouer (pronounced “zhoo-ay”, French for “to play”) is a cosmetics line from film producer Christine Zilber and makeup artist Kerry Malouf. It features singles for face, lips, and eyes that can be attached together to create individualized palettes.

I took advantage of the 3-for-2 offer from the Lucky Breaks section of November 2004 issue of Lucky to try Jouer cosmetics. I selected lip gloss in Monsoon (a deep wine) and cream eye color in Cashmere, described as “khaki brown with shimmer” but really a shimmery taupe. As the freebie, I received lip gloss in Starfish, described as “luminous buff with shimmer” but it’s so sheer, it’s like applying clear shimmer.

Performance-wise, I liked all the Jouer products I received. The textures are indeed sheer but layerable, as the Jouer website says. The customized palette system is smart, but the white packaging would get dirty in a makeup kit. I would consider buying Jouer products again, even though the price ($18) for an individual color is too steep for my liking.

Jouer may be purchased directly from their website. The 3-for-2 offer from Lucky might still be valid – check the November issue to be sure. Also, Jouer is offering free shipping for purchases over $70 to registered users – you would have to buy a minimum of four colors to qualify.

Alternatively, Jouer may be purchased through Sephora.com. Sephora offers free shipping for purchases over $75, free gift packaging, and 3 free samples with purchase. Its web site offers an extensive selection of brands, and you can mix and match from its many brands to qualify for free shipping. You may also visit Sephora.com by clicking on the Sephora banners on any of the Beauty pages on The Style Page web site.

Paula Begoun questions sources and methodology of cosmetics ingredient report

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The Beauty > Consumer page of The Style Page provides links to product reviews, sites on cosmetics safety, and animal testing. This page links to the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep report, “a safety assessment of ingredients in personal care products.” Paula Begoun questions the sources and methodology used by the EWG in her Beauty Bulletin in response to an inquiry about the safety of titanium dioxide, which is used as a white pigment in cosmetics and also as a sunscreen ingredient.

Paula notes,

“Much of what the EWG reported was confusing or hard to interpret as their sources either didn’t include the actual substance being evaluated or they used animal and inhalation studies … Rats being fed or injected with substances doesn’t relate to how it is used (or what effect it might have) when mixed in a cosmetic and applied on the skin.”

Mascara reviews – Rimmel, Physicians Formula

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It’s been said that once women find a mascara they like, they stick to it. The Style Page is no exception. Several years ago, I discovered Maybelline’s Volum’Express mascara and stuck to it. I take advantage of sales to stock up. I like the way it thickens my eyelashes and doesn’t clump. However, I am a sucker for new ways of packaging cosmetics.


Volum’Eyes Instant Full Volume Comb Mascara from Rimmel

Rimmel Volum’Eyes Instant Full Volume Comb Mascara features a comb rather a mascara brush. One would think that the comb would separate lashes and prevent clumping, but it doesn’t. After applying this mascara, my lashes looked like the spiky eyelashes that Cher had in her Sonny & Cher Comedy Hour heydey. In that way, the store displays featuring Kate Moss with a curiously clean mascara wand are misleading. Shop Rimmel at Wal-Mart.


Lash-in-a-Tube® Full Coverage Cream Mascara from Physicians’ Formula

Physicians Formula Lash-in-a-Tube Mascara is also billed as a volumizing mascara. While this mascara doesn’t clump like the Rimmel mascara, it doesn’t build volume. Shop Physicians Formula at major drugstores and discount chains.

After applying mascara, I brush my lashes with a mascara wand salvaged from a tube that I discarded. But if you like a good gimmick (as I do), you can also use Paula Dorf’s Mascara Fan ($16). Shop Paula Dorf at Sephora.

Beauty from Kohl’s Department Stores

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The marketing of cosmetics is a strange business. Sears rolled out its Circle of Beauty concept comprising fragrance, skin care, and color cosmetics with much fanfare, and then decided to exit the beauty business only a few years later. JC Penney announced it too was getting out of the beauty business and stopped carrying Iman, Color Me Beautiful, and Ultima II at its stores. The decisions of Sears and JC Penney to get out of selling cosmetics was a blow to Avon, which expected to market its beComing line through these retail outlets. Avon therefore had to rely on its traditional means of selling (sales representatives, carts at the mall) to market beComing.

Discount stores have sought to distinguish themselves by selling products its competitors don’t have. Wal-Mart sells Coty’s Rimmel, while Target sells a cosmetics line from makeup artist Sonia Kashuk. The beleaguered KMart Corporation is not selling an exclusive line of cosmetics, but given the energy it’s put into advertising its new clothing lines (including ads in Vogue), I wouldn’t be surprised if KMart rolled out its own line of cosmetics.

I have already written about Walgreen’s selling IsaDora cosmetics from Sweden and CVS’s selling Lumene Cosmetics .

Mid-priced stores such as Caldor and Upton’s have gone out of business altogether, and the market leader in this category is clearly Kohl’s. Kohl’s has entered into marketing cosmetics in a most audacious way. It has partnered with the Beauty Bank division of Estee Lauder Companies to establish three cosmetics lines in its stores. The three lines are good skin, American Beauty, and Flirt!

good skin offers skin care products, of course. The packages are color-coded according to complexion. Good skin care also offers foundation and concealers.

American Beauty features a real American beauty – Ashley Judd – as its “face.” I have been in love with Ashley Judd ever since seeing her in the movie Simon Birch and linger over magazines on which she’s featured on the cover, but even she can’t excite me in this cosmetics line.

Flirt! is the most captivating of the three cosmetics lines. It’s targeted to younger consumers and features a wide range of colors (and of course, shimmer). The Style Page judges a cosmetics line by its selection of eye shadows, and Flirt! offers a wide variety of both matte and shimmery colors. The boxes are color-coded and the eye shadow container slides open and a mirror pop ups (great packaging, but needless). The Style Page bought Dreamy Eyes Eyeshadow ($10) in Mellowtini, a shimmery olive that would be appropriate for the crease or the wedge (the outer third of the eyelid).

Where to buy Jordana cosmetics

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Site statistics are a valuable means of feedback on The Style Page. Lately, I noticed that users found the Beauty > Cosmetics page by searching on “where can i buy jordana cosmetics” and “buy jordana cosmetics.”

Jordana cosmetics are very affordable, but not that easy to find. The Style Page has spotted Jordana eye pencils and lip pencils at Walgreen’s and the fuller range of Jordana cosmetics at dollar stores, but not at the large chains such as Big Lots!, Dollar Tree, or Dollar General, which are listed on the Beauty > Shopping page.