First, Illamasqua: now By Lauren Luke is coming to the U.S. through Sephora’s soon-to-be-opened flagship store in Times Square and Sephora.com.
Watch Lauren as she talks about the launch of her cosmetics line at Sephora and Sephora.com:
Category: cosmetics
Illamasqua now at Sephora.com!
Illamasqua brand image
Last September, I reported on the pending launch of Illamasqua in the UK, initially at Selfridges. Since that time, Illamasqua has expanded through the UK.
I wrote to Illamasqua, and asked when it would come to the U.S. A representative flatly wrote back to me that Illamasqua had no immediate plans to expand in the U.S.
Now, according to an authoritative source, namely The Official Blog of Illamasqua, Illamasqua will arrive in the U.S.:
Yes you’ve heard right, the rumours are true. We’re thrilled to announce that Illamasqua will be launching in the brand new Sephora store, 5 Times Square on 31st July.
Although we weren’t planning to retail in the US quite this soon, the demand from our American fans has been phenomenal so we just didn’t think it was fair to keep people waiting any longer. …
… We knew what we were doing was groundbreaking, but we honestly didn’t anticipate such an incredible global reaction.
Our US rollout will begin on 31st July with a coveted spot in New York’s newest beauty mecca, Sephora 5 Times Square. We will then be bringing our artistry to a further 26 Sephora stores across America by the end of October.
Now those of us in the U.S. don’t have to wait any longer: today, The Official Blog of Illamasqua announces that Sephora.com Goes Live! As for me, I’m springing for the nail polish in Unnatural (blood red) to go with Ellis Faas liquid lipcolor in its signature blood red Ellis Red.
I predict that Illamasqua will have a cult following on the order of MAC or NARS Cosmetics.
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More Than a Pretty Face interviews Sam Fine, Part 1
Sam Fine, makeup artist extraordinaire
Some of my questions are based on your 1998 book Fine Beauty
Fine Beauty
I will also base my questions on the feature Sam’s Club in the May 2009 issue of Vogue.
1. There is no doubt that mainstream cosmetics lines have greatly expanded their options for women of African origin (I use this term, as “African-American” doesn’t seem to apply to women who were born and live outside the U.S.). Is there still a need for niche cosmetic lines? Is there anything that niche cosmetics line offer that mainstream cosmetics lines still don’t cover?
Niche brands tend to have better shade range and also products with higher pigment, which are what a woman of color truly needs.
2. Would you care to volunteer your thoughts about niche cosmetics lines? The least expensive that I can name are Zuri, Black Radiance, Astarte, and Posner. There’s also Queen Latifah’s Queen Collection for Cover Girl, Iman, Flori Roberts, Nacara (Canada), Fashion Fair, Sleek MakeUp (UK), and blackUp Paris.
I still use these brands on my clients – and probably always will. As I mentioned above, they not only provide great shade range but they also provide great coverage, such as Black Opal’s Flawless Concealer, Iman Cosmetics Eyeshadow in Tiger Eye
3. What do you think about mineral products such as sunscreen and mineral foundations for women of African origin? Many of these products are formulated with titanium oxide and zinc oxide, which can look ashen on darker skin tones. What alternatives do you recommend?
Women of color need more coverage than mineral makeup can really provide. Nevertheless, mineral makeup is great for women who are looking for lighter coverage.
4. What challenges do you face when doing makeup for Hi-Definition TV or other Hi-Def video?
You need to spend more time on skin – but I’m a perfectionist, and tend to spend a lot of time perfecting the skin to create a flawless canvas no matter the situation.
Continue to Part 2:
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More Than a Pretty Face interviews Sam Fine, Part 2
Sam’s Club in the May 2009 issue of Vogue
5. In Fine Beauty, you advocated neutral makeup, and in your appearance on CBS Morning News, you still advocate neutral makeup. Yet Liya Kebede and Chanel Iman are wearing vivid blush in the Vogue article. Is the distinction between everyday life and editorial or runway?
Yes, there is definitely a distinction between everyday life and editorial/runway. Editorial and runway give you the freedom to experiment with different, bold looks- looks that might not work for the everyday. For example, translating extreme rosy cheeks on the runway might mean using a little colorful eyeliner to brighten your look.
http://cnettv.cnet.com/av/video/cbsnews/atlantis2/player-dest.swf
Watch CBS Videos Online – Sam Fine on CBS Morning News
6. Which do you like best: print, runway, or “real life”? Why?
Definitely real life. I love working on real women- I grew up with a mom and three sisters and I definitely have an appreciation for how makeup translates on a “real woman’s” face. Just like the women in my DVD.
Iman hosts the launch party for Sam Fine’s DVD
L to R: Iman, Sam Fine, Deborah Cox, and Vanessa Williams: “real women”?
7. Do you want to create your cosmetics line? The Vogue article says that you put together custom kits for women. It seems like a logical progression for you to start your own makeup line.
You’ll have to stay tuned!
8. Are you planning to write another book?
Probably not. I’d like to work on expanding into more DVD’s, hopefully touching on everything that I wasn’t able to in the first.
9. It’s been 11 years since Fine Beauty was published. If you were to revise Fine Beauty, what would you change or update? Since you meant to be an illustrator, I think it would be great to include your illustrations. 🙂
I wouldn’t change a thing – I’m just extremely glad that there’s now a different form of media to reach the consumer, which is why I decided to do the DVD!
11. Are there any parting makeup tips that you would like to share with our readers?
Sure- here are some of my favorites.
Using a single layer of tissue, blot the excess oil from foundation, leaving the skin looking more natural and less made-up.
If you can’t find the perfect nude eyeshadow, use a pressed powder that matches your complexion instead.
A light dusting of loose powder over eyebrows makes them appear more natural and prevents them from fading throughout the day.
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HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner
There’s some thing exotic about loose kohl powder. Matin said that everyone in his native Afghanistan used surma (kohl) powder to line their eyes and that it remains his favorite product to use. My husband, who grew up in Calcutta, remembers how the Afghan wallahs walked up and down the streets peddling surma and hing, a sulfurous natural resin used in cooking (because of its odor, hing is usually cut with rice flour or chickpea flour).
L’Oreal HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner
Now L’Oreal has come out with its HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner. At $12-13, it’s nearly one-third the cost of Guerlain Terracotta Loose Powder Kohl Liner
When I first tried L’Oreal HIP Kohl Eyeliner , I had a lot of problems with smearing on my lower lids – as though I had some sort of Alice Cooper thing going on. At first, I thought that it might be the Kat Von D Tattoo Concealer
, but had the same problem.
With some experimentation, I learned how to work HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner. Here’s how:
* Stroke the fine-tipped brush on the back of your hand to remove excess.
* Apply. The brush enables you to get right at the root of your lashes.
* To intensify or smudge the line, pick up the pigment on your hand with a chisel-head eyeliner brush, and smudge
You might also use a sealer, but bypass an overpriced product like Paula Dorf Transformer
Now that I’ve gotten the hang of using HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner, I’m enjoying using it.
You may find HiP high intensity pigments™ Kohl Eyeliner at big box stores (Target, Walmart), supermarkets, drugstores (particularly The Big Three), and drugstore.com.
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Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup SPF 15
I’ve been critical of the marketing of so-called mineral cosmetics: in a previous article Mineral Madness, I wrote:
The term “mineral” had referred to loose powders, but now it’s being associated with products such as lipstick, liquid foundation, and pressed powders that contain other ingredients in addition to minerals. Thus, all cosmetics can be considered mineral cosmetics! Be critical, and recognize that “mineral” is just another marketing construct.
Pür Minerals is seizing on the marketing construct of mineral makeup being “pure.” It is a line of pressed powder foundation, blushes, and eye shadows that contain ingredients other than minerals.
Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15
Despite my criticism of the marketing of so-called mineral products, I do like Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15. I took it along with me on my recent trip, in addition to Daniel Chinchilla Flawless Finish Liquid Foundation and Paula’s Choice loose powder (no longer available). I found that Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15 met my needs (particularly coverage of redness on the cheeks) and that I could have done without the last two products and lightened my makeup bag.
One can easily pick up powder from Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15. To apply, I use the tools and techniques recommended by Pür Minerals founder Joli Baker:
I remind everyone that a light dusting of powder will not provide adequate protection from the sun. I wear smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer SPF 15 and Dermaxyl under Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15.
Find out what others say about Pür Minerals 4-in-1 Pressed Mineral Makeup Foundation With SPF 15.
You may find Pür Minerals at Ulta and Dillard’s in the U.S. and Shoppers Drug Mart in Canada.
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Rethinking Mally Beauty
After a recent spate of presentations by Mally Roncal on QVC, I began to rethink my opinions about Mally Beauty. I still like the packaging of Mally Beauty products and the beautiful shades of Mally’s Shimmer, Shape & Glow Face System, but the pressed powders are so hard, it’s difficult to pick up color on a brush. I have to scrape powder with my fingernail to pick up color on my brush.
Also, some of Mally’s products outrageously priced. A 4.0 oz bottle of dual-phase eye remover for $25, when you can buy dual-phase eye makeup removers from Neutrogena or Boots Botanicals for less than $10, with more product? A waxy brow pencil for $25, when Revlon ColorStay Brow Enhancer, a comparable product, costs less than $10?
If Mally would reformulate the Mally’s Shimmer, Shape & Glow Face System, I’d be a repeat customer. I’ll pass on the Eye-Opening Brow Boost and Dual Action Makeup Remover.
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Developments in sunscreen technology
Cosmetics Design Europe is a great resource for developments in cosmetics formulation. Here are three recent articles concerning sunscreen technologies:
SymHelios® 1031
According to the linked article, SymHelios® 1031 prevents a protein called the Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor (AhR) from inducing long term skin damage. UVB rays are said to cause the amino acid tryptophan to form a toxin that binds with AhR to induce the negative effects of exposure to UVB rays. SymHelios® 1031 is not a UV filter and should not take the place of UV filters.
SymHelios® 1031 was developed by the German company Symrise AG. I could not find any evidence that the FDA has approved SymHelios® 1031. Nor do I know of any products containing SymHelios® 1031. If there are independent studies that support or refute Symrise’s claims, please tell me about them.
Solastay S1
Specialty chemicals company Hallstar has launched a new photostabilizer called Solastay S1. Hallstar claims that Solastay S1 enables Octyl methocycinnamate (OMC), a UVB absorber, and Avobenzone, a UVA absorber, to be combined. OMC and Avobenzone are unstable together.
If there are independent studies that support or refute the claims for Hallstar’s claims, please tell me about them.
Nanoparticles
Nanoparticles are one of the most controversial topics in cosmetics formulation. Due to the efforts of the Environmental Working Group and companies marketing natural and organic products, consumers have become scared about the use of nanoparticles in cosmetics. However, NANODERM, a project that involves twelve European universities and institutes, has shown that nanoparticles of titanium dioxide, an active ingredient used in mineral sunblock, do not penetrate the skin. Watch this video featuring Professor Tilman Butz of the University of Leipzig (Germany), who led the NANODERM project.
Mineral sunscreens, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, can look ashen, particularly on deeper skin tones. Micronized titanium dioxide minimizes the ashen appearance.
Want more? Cosmeticsdesign.com has a special edition on sunscreens.
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P&G to pull Max Factor from the U.S.
I was stunned – and saddened – to learn that P&G is discontinuing sale of Max Factor in the U.S.
Stunned, because P&G seemed to be investing so much into the brand, by hiring Gisele to be the face of Max Factor and heavily promoting its Extreme Lash Plumper and Vivid Impact Lipstick (which I think is very good), particularly through TotalBeauty.
Saddened, because we are losing a truly iconic brand. I do not use the term iconic lightly – it’s overused.
Business is business, however. P&G is pulling Max Factor from the U.S. because of poor sales. It’s probably the same reason that distribution of Max Factor was limited to Wal-Mart and a few other outlets (Ulta), but not to the Big Three of drugstore chains: CVS, Walgreen’s, and Rite-Aid.
I agree with SF Beauty Examiner Mira Torres that tastes have changed. Women no longer want the full coverage of Pan-Stik and Pan-Face. Then, as Ms. Torres rightly points out,
Max Factor’s downfall may be that it tried to stay “hollywood glamour,” even if the term “Hollywood” (with the train-wreck tabloids and and reality world mayhem) has become kind of a joke.
As for me, I had to reproduce this image of Elizabeth Taylor advertising Pan-Stik that graced Ms. Torres’s article:
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| Elizabeth Taylor for Max Factor’s Pan-Stik |
This is Liz from the 50s: pixie cut; dramatic, arched eyebrows, and painted lips. Now many, including my husband, might see Elizabeth Taylor as the ultimate train-wreck (multiple marriages, her friendship with Michael Jackson), but she’s kept people fascinated for well over 60 years: no mean feat.
If anyone epitomized the “Hollywood Glamour” that Max Factor promoted, it’s Liz.
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Sunscreen ingredients
You know about the need to wear sunscreen. You know about the need for a sunscreen that protects you from both UVA and UVB rays. But are you confused about sunscreen ingredients and how they work? What about proprietary names, such as Helioplex (Neutrogena), and trademarked ingredients, such as Meroxyl FX (L’Oreal) and Parsol® 1789?
dermatology.about.com answers these questions and more. Heather Brannon, MD is the “guide” for dermatology.about.com. While Dr. Brannon is not a dermatologist (she is a family practice doctor), she has a definite interest in dermatologic topics.
Dr. Brannon’s article Proper Use of Sunscreen describes the various kinds of ultraviolet radiations and classifies sunscreen ingredients as either physical barriers (for example, titanium oxide) or radiation absorbers, in addition to discussing appropriate application of sunscreen. Her article Sunscreen Information – Information About UVA Sunscreen Ingredients describes various UVA radiation absorbers, including Helioplex, Meroxyl FX, and Parsol® 1789.
Given the importance of wearing sunscreen, these two articles are must-reads.
In a subsequent article, I will mention recent innovations in sunscreen technology.
Cold Cream 'n' Roses 
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