In the third and final part of this interview, Matin discusses becoming Neutrogena Cosmetics’ makeup artist, makeup tips, and his hobbies.
10. Tell me about Neutrogena approaching you to be its makeup artist. Are you also providing creative direction through developing new products and color palettes?
I met some Neutrogena people at a dinner party and we talked shop. Next thing I know, I got a call from them me asking me if I was interested in working with them. It was important for Neutrogena to have a make-up artist who not only understands how to apply cosmetics, but also the science behind them. Because of my science background, it was a perfect fit. I am providing direction on shades, textures and I test drive all the upcoming color products prior to production.
11. Can you share with our readers any advance information about new products from Neutrogena?
As always, Neutrogena will be launching products that are innovative while being both beautiful and beneficial.
12.Women want to know how to apply makeup and look beautiful, so this is probably the part that will interest readers the most:
a. For me (and probably many other women), shading the crease is probably the trickiest part of makeup application. It’s important to me, as I have deep-set eyes. What do you recommend in terms of eye shadow shades, choice of brushes, and application?
If you have deep set eyes, you do not want to “shade” the crease. This will make your eyes look even more deep set. Instead, try a wash of neutral beige (skin color) all over the eyes, then go with a taupe or caramel color and use it lightly on the brow bone to make the brow bone recede. Best is to use a fluffy small eye shadow brush (like laura mercier’s eye color brush) made of sable hair for the wash all over, and a smoother brush (like laura mercier crease brush) made of squirrl hair on the brow bone and under the brow to get a very sheer application of the powder eye shadow.
b. How best to apply foundation? By dotting the cheeks, “stippling,” or other means? Fingertips, sponge, or brush? If you use a sponge, do you moisten it or use it dry?
Use a dampened sponge with oil free foundation. Put the foundation in your palm and press the sponge (egg shape is the best) in to the palm of the hand to absorb the foundation. You should not see the foundation on top of the sponge. Then apply by patting the sponge and moving it quickly starting with flat areas of the face (cheeks) and neck and use very little if at all around the eyes and sides of the nose, smile lines and laugh lines.
For moisturizing, still one can use a damp sponge, or a brush or even fingers
13.Are you planning to write a book on makeup application?
Not yet. I don’t have any new concept for a book on make-up, but a book I will write, just not on make up 😉
14.Your biography states that you enjoy “practicing Calligraphy, studying Islamic and Gothic architecture and shopping for exotic ethnic textiles.” I like textiles, too – especially block-printed textiles from India (see my blog posting Block-printed textiles, http://thestylepage.blogspot.com/2006/08/block-printed-textiles.html) and suzanis from Central Asia. However, I can’t find the bold suzanis online that I see in Domino. What textiles are capturing your attention now?
Well, I have always had a soft spot for suzani and chain stitching. I now have a foundation in Afghanistan called Afghan Hands Inc. (www.afghanhands.org) which is mainly a literacy program but it also employs the women (war widows) to do embroidery. We do bold patterns in wearable scarves and shawls using suzani and chain stitching and using the old traditional flowers on the fabrics but with a more modern color scheme.
Postscript: Matin was a <a href=" 2007 finalist for CNN HeroesCNN Heroesfor his role as a community crusader in starting Afghan Hands.
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Get it while it lasts
Here in the Washington, DC Metro area, where I live, the dominant drugstore chain is CVS. There is only a smattering of Walgreen’s and Rite-Aid stores (including former Eckerd that became Rite-Aid stores after Canada’s Jean Coutu Pharmacy sold Eckerd stores to Rite-Aid). Consequently, I go out of the way to shop at Walgreen’s or Rite-Aid.
I went to Walgreen’s yesterday, and I was startled to see all IsaDora cosmetics sold at 50% discount. I asked the beauty adviser-cum-salesperson if Walgreen’s is no longer going to carry IsaDora, and she told me that IsaDora no longer wanted to ship products to the USA(!)
While I was not initially impressed by IsaDora, I reconsidered after reading Paula Begoun’s glowing review of its eyeshadow quads. I now enjoy IsaDora eyeshadow quads in Antique Gold and Bronzing Plums – and picked up the eye shadow trio in Patina yesterday.
In short, get IsaDora products while you still can!
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Goddessy Rx 14-piece natural brush set
Goddessy is now selling its 14 Piece Brush Set 
Goddessy’s brush set.
The cosmetic brush set is packed in a cosmetics roll ready for travel.
I’m partial to the eye shadow brush which has a flat head but a slant edge – great for contouring. I’m also using combo brow brush/eyelash comb to groom my eyebrows prior to applying tint.
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A lousy mascara, a so-so mascara, and a great mascara
Bésame is a boutique cosmetics line that replicates vintage cosmetic containers from the 30s and 40s – its reproductions are more authentic than Body & Soul
Curiously, the Bésame Sculpture Lash Mascara in Plum doesn’t smear, but like the one in Black, it doesn’t build up volume.
The find is L’Oreal HIP’s High Drama Volumizing Mascara in Ultimate Bronze Black, part of its limited edition collection in orangey shades. It really makes eyelashes appear thick, and doesn’t smear. At $9.99 a tube, it’s a great mascara at a much more comfortable price point than Bésame’s Sculpture Lash Mascara.
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Two consumer items for cosmetics users
Cosmetics Products Get a Makeover – A new international standard provides guidelines for the detection and identification of candida albicans, which can contaminate cosmetics while in production. Yes, candida, the nasty little fungus responsible for yeast infections. However, there is no reason for alarm: most cosmetics are safe to use.
FDA Proposes New Rule for Sunscreen Products – The Food and Drug Administration (U.S.) has proposed rules for rating UVA in a sunscreen and labeling sunscreens. SPF covers protection from UVB rays only. In addition, the FDA proposes this warning label on sunscreens:”UV exposure from the sun increases the risk of skin cancer, premature skin aging, and other skin damage. It is important to decrease UV exposure by limiting time in the sun, wearing protective clothing, and using a sunscreen.“
The FDA is accepting comments on the proposed rules until November 26, 2007. You may submit comments to FDA referencing Docket No. 1978N-0038.
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Removing Eye Makeup: More Important than You Think!
Soon after I publshed a criticism on the fallacy of keeping mascara and eyeliner on overnight, Paula Begoun noted, “a basic remedy for puffy, irritated, crepey skin around the eyes was being sure to remove every last trace of eye makeup before you go to bed” and recommended using an eye makeup remover in addition to a water-soluble cleanser.
Artificial tears – a must in your makeup kit
On a related issue, I recently had some inflammation along the lower eyelid. I quit wearing eye makeup on the lower lid, applied artificial tears(not eye drops formulated with steroids) and an eye ointment
, and began washing my hands more thoroughly. I use hand sanitizers like Purell
only sparingly, as I take seriously the fact that bacteria and microbes will mutate into more resistant strains in response to antiseptics.
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Good and bad advice from Allure
Here are Beauty tips of the month from Allure
- For a little drama, try not washing your mascara and eyeliner off completely—it will be smudgy and sexy the next day, says Charlotte Tilbury.
- Try a lipstain instead of gloss—the look is more inviting, say makeup artists. Dab color on the middle of lips, blending outward. It should look as if you’ve polished off a Popsicle.
- Work a new version of smoky eyes with bronze colored shadow. Line eyes with a soft chocolate pencil and sweep eye shadow over the lids and a little underneath, blending so there are no hard lines.
Regarding the first tip, going to bed without removing your makeup is a no-no! It will not be sexy in the morning!
Facial cleanser is usually not enough to remove eye makeup, so be sure to use an eye makeup remover (I prefer oil-free or two-phase
liquid eye makeup removers that don’t leave an oily residue) and pat clean with a cotton ball or pad. Eye makeup removers formulated with mineral oil causes smearing. Use a second cotton ball or pad to make sure all eye makeup has been removed.
I won’t comment on the second tip – I tried to take advantage of Allure’s giveaway for Laura Mercier
Isadora Eye Shadow Quartet in Antique Gold
However, the third tip is great – I like the Isadora Eye Shadow Quartet in Antique Gold (I use the darkest shade as a liner), but the Eye Shadow Quartet in Bronzing Plum also looks tempting.
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Finding those hard-to-find inexpensive cosmetics
Every now and then, I get inquiries about specific Love My Lips products. Unfortunately, finding these products is catch-as-catch-can. I don’t know of any store that carries a complete line of Love My Lips products. Moreover, Bari Cosmetics, which distributes Love My Lips, has not been responsive to my inquiries. To those people looking for Love My Lips products, I suggest prowling dollar and close-out stores, including, but not limited to, the big chains such as Dollar Tree, Dollar General, and Big Lots!
Jordana is another much sought-after brand of inexpensive cosmetics, particularly for their eyeliner pencils. Walgreen’s drugstores carry Jordana’s eyeliner and lip liner pencils, and you can find a broader range of Jordana cosmetics at dollar stores, although I haven’t seen Jordana at the big chain stores. Alas, I can no longer find Jordana’s eyeliner in Bittersweet – it was the perfect black-brown eyeliner that I favor. Now, however, you can shop for Jordana online at BestBeautyOnline.com.
My web stats indicate a number of queries on L’Oreal HIP foundation. It has been harder to find this in stores. My contact at L’Oreal tells me that several retailers are no longer carrying L’Oreal HIP Flawless Liquid Makeup, in order to make room for other L’Oreal HIP products; however, Rite-Aid and Wal-Mart are still carrying L’Oreal HIP Flawless Liquid Makeup. Rite-Aid partners with drugstore.com for online shopping.
My web stats also show a few queries on Boots No 7 products at Canada’s Shoppers Drug Mart. While Boots No 7 and Botanicals may be found at select CVS stores and many Target stores in the U.S., only four Shoppers Drug Mart stores in Canada carry Boots cosmetics: for more information, visit Shoppers Drug Mart.
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Revlon limited edition collection
No doubt about it – Revlon took a drubbing in 2006, with the collapse of Vital Radiance the same year that it debuted. One also wishes that Revlon would have brought in new faces when it totally revamped Almay, but instead model Elaine Mellencamp (wife of singer John) continues as the face of Almay.
Revlon Just Bitten Lip Stain
Enough of that – Revlon has introduced a number of flashy new products in its limited edition collection, including Revlon Just Bitten Lip Stain and Bedroom Eyes™ Powder Liner. Just Bitten™ Lip Stain has a rollerball applicator – not the best for even layering. What’s more, it dries quickly. The shade of Just Bitten™ in Blood Orange reminded me of orange popsicle stain. Other shades include Berry Juicy, Cherry Tart, and Plum Wicked.
I chose Revlon Bedroom Eyes™ Powder Liner in Smokin’, which is great for creating the smoky eye. Be sure to tap excess powder from the applicator onto a tissue beofre applying – otherwise, it gets all over your cheek and countertop. Clearly, when using Bedroom Eyes™ as part of your eye makeup, do your eye makeup before you apply base. As FT Weekend columnist Edwina Ings-Chambers, who had a makeup application by NARS artist James Boehmer, writes:
The first thing to remember, Boehmer says, is that you shouldn’t try to replicate the 60s thing: keep the liner off the lid and stick to putting it round the eyes. “It’s more about the outer corner of the lid, not all over the lid,” he says.
Be prepared with cotton balls and eye makeup remover or Swabplus Liquid Filled Cotton Swabs, Eye Makeup Remover. Be sure to finish this look with lots of volumizing mascara.
BTW Generally, I find lipliners too harsh. Revlon is one of the two companies I know that offers a clear lipliner (ColorStay®) at a nominal price – the other being Paula Begoun’s Paula’s Choice line. Paula also recommends Lip Line Fixer from The Body Shop, which proves that she’s not partisan.
I haven’t seen L’Oreal’s clear lipliner in ages, so I guessed that L’Oreal discontinued it. An alternative is a lipliner that exactly matches the color of your lips, which is why MAC’s lip pencil in Spice has remained so popuplar.
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Demystifying eye makeup
Perhaps I was a bit critical of Stila’s Smoky Eye Palette – I’m not adverse to pricey brands (particularly if they provide something I can’t find in less pricier brands) and some folks seem to like the palette. Still, I think it was nervy to insert an audio commercial advertising other Stila products on a $40 item.
That said, eye makeup is the trickiest part of makeup application, and it’s to a makeup company’s advntage to provide guidance on applying makeup to sell product. Here’s a rundown on products with accompanying guidance:
Bare Escentuals Get Started Eyes
Bare Escentuals Get Started Eyes
Jemma Kid Eye Wardrobe Eye Shadow Quartet
Jemma Kidd is a London-based makeup artist. She’s also the sister of model, champion polo player, and race car driver Jodie Kidd; great-granddaughter of press magnate Lord Beaverbrook; and wife of the grandson of the current Duke of Wellington – whew! Advice on application may be downloaded from Jemma Kidd’s website, as well as her columns for The Mail on Sunday (UK).
Mally Beauty City Chick Smokey Eye Kit
Mally Beauty is a makeup line from celebrity makeup artist Mally Roncal (she’s the one who makes Beyoncé always look fabulous). Originally available through QVC, Mally Beauty is available at Amazon.com
Pop Beauty Eye Class – Smokey Eyes
Cold Cream 'n' Roses 
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