Category: interview

The Style Page interview with Michael Marcus

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Michael Marcus is the founder and CEO of an eponymous line michaelmarcus (yes, that’s all lower case). As with several makeup artists I’ve interviewed, he has a background in art, having studied art history and interior at Texas Tech University in Lubbock, Texas.  He started his career as a makeup artist at the Prescriptives counter at Neiman Marcus in Dallas and became national makeup artist for Estée Lauder. Through his travels, he learned that women, particularly those over age 35, were clamoring for brighter, clearer colors than those offered from brown-based makeup lines.

He founded michaelmarcus to fill that void in the cosmetics market. His largest account is Dillard’s, although his line is also carried by a number of boutiques. In addition, his line was picked up by Takashimaya New York (since closed), the U.S. outpost of the Japanese department store, where he had the distinction of being the only U.S. brand that its beauty department carried.

Michael Marcus

The Style Page posed a few questions to Michael Marcus:

Why a relaunch of michaelmarcus?

We are relaunching a fragrance I created originally for Takashimaya New York. It was called Takashimaya “t”. Since Takashimaya closed we have been inundated with upset people looking for the fragrance. It was their top-selling fragrance after all.

How are you promoting the relaunch? What is your near-term itinerary?

Interestingly, we have not done a lot of promotion on the relaunch. We posted on Facebook and sent out an e-mail blast. Even before the official release date we had over 50% of our production sold.

Your biggest account is with Dillard’s, which has a presence in most U.S. states. How did you land the account with Dillard’s?

Dillard’s was looking for new brands to energize their cosmetic department. There had been several big articles about me so the buyer contacted us.

Now that Takashimaya NY is closed, what are your plans to re-enter the NYC market?

We are exploring options. Unfortunately, there are not a lot of New York retailers that want unique independent brands.

You say that you got the same complaint, especially women over 35, about brown-based cosmetics lines and the lack of clear color. Yet I also wonder if the desire for color is driven by regional differences, for example, between Dallas and NYC. I also wonder if your older customers are still influenced by the seasonal color typing (Color Me Beautiful) of the 1980s. Could you comment on this?

Many of my bolder shades were first wildly successful in New York. Mainly because I have offered colors no one else does. As the baby boomers are aging they are finding that nudes and neutrals are no longer working, they simply wash a woman out.
I interviewed Robert Jones, another Dallas-based makeup artist, and asked him if there were still significant differences in beauty ideals between Dallas and NYC. My motivation in asking him this question was that consolidation among department stores may have led to homogenization in beauty ideals. Stores that I knew when I lived in Texas in the 1980s, such as Joske’s and Foley’s, have been absorbed by larger chains. Sakowitz and Frost Bros. are gone. To get back to Robert Jones’s response, he said that the difference was that women in Dallas glam up, even to go the grocery store. What’s your take on differences in beauty ideals between Dallas and NYC?

I think it’s amazing that people still think of Dallas as big hair and a lot of makeup….The biggest difference I have found in all of my travels is that Texas women and southern women in general have a tendency to be more willing to try something different. New Yorkers easily get stuck in a rut! You are absolutely right in one respect and that is stores have been homogenized in their selection of beauty brands. As an independent and niche brand we try to compete with the big players. Unfortunately, buyers find it “safe” to buy a brand that is owned by a Lauder, Coty, or L’Oreal for example. A small brand is a risk and no one can afford a risk. To me, so many of the brands out there all resemble each other, especially when a company controls a dozen brands. They all start looking and feeling alike.

Your Facebook profile says that your activities and interests are travel and art. Does your work pre-empt opportunities for travel? What are your favorite places for travel? What places would you like to visit that you haven’t seen?

Work is always first. When you own the company it’s seven days a week, even when you try to take a vacation. Italy is my most favorite place in the world. There is something magical about it. I am dying to travel to Egypt, Petra, and Angkor Wat. I could keep going. There are so many I still have not been. I love exploring, especially ruins.

Are there any parting thoughts about beauty that you would like to share with our readers?

Don’t be afraid to try something new. EXPERIMENT. It’s only makeup and it will wash off!!! When you lose the spirit of trying new and different things, you’re OLD!!

The Style Page appreciates the opportunity to work directly with Michael Marcus on this feature.

The Style Page interview with Jemma Kidd

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Jemma Kidd

1. Your book Jemma Kidd Make-up Masterclass: Beauty Bible of Professional Techniques and Wearable Looks discusses the founding of the Jemma Kidd Make-up School and your three make-up lines: The Jemma Kidd Make-up School, Jemma Kidd PRO, and most recently, JK Jemma Kidd for Target Beauty. What your book doesn’t tell us is how and why you became a make-up artist. What inspired you?

I grew up around modeling and had always been creative and found myself watching the make-up artists behind the scenes wanting to know their secrets. I felt at home backstage – the vibe, the buzz, the people – I just loved it!

2. How did you learn your craft?

I started out in the industry as a model, but I was never really comfortable in the limelight – unlike my little sister Jodie! When I discovered what it was like being on the other end of the make-up brush, I knew I’d found the right career. I was lucky to work as an assistant to make-up supremo Mary Greenwell for five years and was then spotted by Premier Hair and Make Up Agency and taken on their books in 1999. Since then I’ve worked with leading fashion designers, photographers and a host of prestigious magazines, including American and British Vogue, Vanity Fair and Elle. In 2003 I founded an academy in London to train professional make-up artists and to offer a range of make-up workshops for women of all ages. I have also created three distinctive make-up ranges – Jemma Kidd Make Up School (launched 2005), Jemma Kidd PRO (launched 2008) and JK Jemma Kidd (launched 2008) – which are sold throughout the UK and US as well as in Australia and Hong Kong .

3. Target has carried your JK Jemma Kidd line (along with Petra Strand’s Pixi and Napoleon Perdis’s NP Set) for over three years now. That is a testament to its popularity and longevity. How were you approached to start your JK Jemma Kidd line for Target Beauty in the first place?

My signature Jemma Kidd Make Up School range was retailing in Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus stores when I was first approached by Target to design an exciting new line for them. Target’s concept for the make-up line was “Design for All”; high quality make-up at affordable prices. The JK Jemma Kidd line was inspired by my love of fashion, runway style and colour. The collection fuses hi-fashion, statement colour and runway glamour with professional performance, bringing the catwalk to the sidewalk without breaking the bank. I loved the idea of creating designer products at high street prices and making on-trend beauty accessible to all. Having my brand stocked by a retail giant like Target is a dream come true.

4. JK Jemma Kidd is a departure from your two other make-up lines. It is characterized by “high fashion, statement color, and runway glamour.” How does JK Jemma Kidd complement Pixi and NP Set?

The JK Jemma Kidd line lets women experiment with color. There are always a lot of on-trend colors in the collection, such as Hi-Design Eye Color in Trend and Stylized; vibrant blues and greens are huge trends for fall 2011. We’re constantly adding new colors to the line.

JK Jemma Kidd Hi Design Eye Color for Target Beauty


4. You are the mother of twins – a boy and a girl – who were born in January 2010. How has becoming a mother changed your involvement with the Jemma Kidd Make-up School and your three make-up lines?

I love my career and am lucky to have a great team of people around me who help make it possible to combine such a busy work and family life – and keep them both running smoothly! However for me, family comes first. Ever since my twins were born I’ve slowed down in terms of career commitments and have started working part time. At Jemma Kidd we promote flexible working hours which is ideal for people with young families.

5. What is your beauty routine? What products do you use to achieve your look?

Good skincare and make-up can improve the appearance of your complexion and help mask any problems, but healthy habits will make your skin glow naturally. I always try to eat well, drink lots of fresh fruit/veg juices, sleep for at least eight hours per night (which is incredibly difficult with twin toddlers!), get plenty of exercise and party in moderation. I’m a firm believer that beauty really does come from within so nutrition is key. I use my JK Jemma Kidd Ultra Plush Mascara and Mannequin Skin Complexion Enhancer are my ‘can’t live without’ beauty essentials. I also always have a couple of prototypes of new products I’m trying out in my make-up bag too.

6. What might we expect next from Jemma Kidd?

My head is constantly buzzing with ideas and projects; my team and I are already dreaming up new products for 2012 and beyond. I’m really excited about visiting Scottsdale in Phoenix in October to promote Target’s redesigned beauty department there. I’ll be providing make-up tips, touch-ups, and showcasing new products so make sure you pop along and say hello!

7. Are there any parting thoughts about make-up and beauty that you would like to share with our readers?

Beauty comes in many different forms – innocence, porcelain skin, babies bottoms! I think imperfections can be very beautiful too.

The Style Page would like to thank Stephanie of LaForce + Stevens, which represents Target Beauty, for arranging this interview with Jemma Kidd.

Postscript:  Jemma Kidd has become Beauty Ambassador for Udo’s Choice Ultimate Oil Blend. She has also established the Jemma Kidd VISIONfund to help prevent and eliminate trachoma, a bacterial infection that can lead to blindness.  For updates, follow Jemma Kidd Make Up School on Facebook.

Fashion Fair appoints Sam Fine as Creative Makeup Director

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Fashion Fair Cosmetics Appoints Celebrity Makeup Artist Sam Fine as Creative Makeup Director.

From wwd.com

This is welcome news.  Some while ago, I posted an link on Facebook to a news item about Fashion Fair’s plans to make over its brand.  One person said, “About time!”

I had the pleasure of interviewing Sam Fine for this blog: see Part 1 and Part 2 of my interview.

An interview with makeup artist and beauty entrepreneur A.J. Crimson, Part 1

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AJ Crimson

Makeup artist and beauty entrepreneur AJ Crimson has worked on projects with many artists and celebrities, including Fergie (more about her in the interview), Sean “Diddy” Combs, and Missy Elliott. His work is featured in fashion and lifestyle magazines worldwide. He is also founder and designer of Kissable Couture, a line he founded in association with co-creator and business partner Keisha Whitaker.

Of all things I do on the blog, I derive the greatest satisfaction from interviewing makeup artists and other creatives in the beauty business.  I am pleased to present AJ’s responses to my questions:

1. Could you tell our readers more about your life than what is provided on your website (http://www.ajcrimson.com/)? For example, where did you grow up? Several other makeup artists whom I’ve interviewed told me that growing up in a family of women fostered their interest in makeup. Did your family inspire your interest in makeup?

I grew up in Detroit, but think this may be common knowledge; I have quite a few siblings. Although I was raised as an only child for many years. I have a really great family who are a lot of fun! I have always been imaginative, creative, and analytical. So the mix of creativity and business comes natural to me. I never set out to be a makeup artist but I do believe it was and still is a natural progress for me when compared to the many positions I have held within the entertainment industry. It all plays a role in the overall goal to be one of the leaders in business to revolutionize a new way of execution and delivery of personal interest services.

2. Your website says that you were “creatively self-taught” in the art of makeup. Tell us how you got involved in makeup and taught yourself how to do makeup.

After working for years as an artist development assistant, I often found myself in an art directing capacity. In that role, I need to make sure the vision for the shoot or project was coming to life. This sometimes meant re shopping for the stylist or asking that makeup changes be made. Eventually I went on to work as a stylist then makeup where I found the most relaxation and peace. I was just creating in silence. I never really had to speak which was calming, I became better at it and it grew to be a passion of mine. To transform someone into a striking beauty is an amazing journey from start to finish. The key is allowing the person to still shine through. I really have mastered it. You will see the difference with and without makeup but you will always see the client’s true self.

3. What do you consider to be your first big break as a makeup artist?

The first job that I keyed was with Fergie from the Black Eyed Peas for “Where is the Love.” I learned so much on this project from negotiating fee, hiring hair and makeup staff, working on set, learning to please the artist and the label all at once. Sometimes it can be hectic because everyone has opinions on what the visual should be.

4. Which is your favorite: editorial, celebrity, or video? Why?

I would have to say my 10 page story in Vogue. What a great experience to be on set with the greats in fashion. Anne Leibovitz, Gucci Westman, Grace Coddington, Natalia Vodianova, and Sean “Diddy” Combs. I respect them all so much for their contributions. Their stories and legacy in the industry is living history. I was a part of that moment. My credit in inscribed in a piece of history.

In Part 2 of the interview, AJ talks more about Kissable Couture and his other activities.

An interview with makeup artist Robert Jones

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Lately, I’ve been taking advice from Robert Jones’s book Makeup Makeovers, after purchasing lip glosses from the Robert Jones Signature Collection from 3 Custom Color Specialists.

Makeup Makeovers

In Makeup Makeovers, you won’t find jaw-dropping makeovers of celebrities and famous models that show off the talent, or in the case of the late Kevyn Aucoin, genius, of the makeup artist. What you’ll find is great advice about selecting shades and applying makeup. You’ll find out why Jones recommends that women with dark skin tones swatch foundation shades on their cheek, as opposed to their jawline. You’ll see his carefully edited collection of 13 eye shadows, from which you can select shades suitable for any skin tone.

Robert Jones

I do my homework before I interview makeup artists and entrepreneurs. After reading Makeup Makeovers, I worked with Tess of 3CC to arrange an interview with Robert Jones, and here are his replies to questions I posed to him.

1. Let’s review your biography. You’re from Texas. You demonstrated talent for art, and then moved on to theater. It was a logical move to get involved in makeup. Growing up in a family of women also fostered your interest in makeup. I find it interesting that two other makeup artists [Sam Fine and Matin Maulawizada] whom I’ve interviewed also said that growing up in a family of women fostered their interest in makeup. What more would you like to share with our readers about your background and career as a makeup artist?

I have worked with so many beautiful women in my career (celebrities, model, the girl next door) and am always inspired by how makeup can boost their confidence and bring out their true beauty. Let’s face it, it is a lot of fun!!!!!
2. How did you enter into partnership with Three Custom Color Specialists (3CC) to create the Robert Jones Signature Collection of blushers and lip glosses? Trae said that either people approach them with an idea, or that 3CC might approach someone with an idea that they’d like to work on.

I felt there was a lack in what I was wanting in glosses and blushes, having heard of 3CC and what they can do, I went to them for help in realizing my vision. Trae liked what we created and asked if they could launch a small collection.
3. Your book Makeup Makeovers presents a well-edited collection of 13 eye shadows that serves the gamut of skin tones. You already have a line of makeup brushes sold through robert jones beauty. Would you launch this eye shadow collection, perhaps in partnership with 3CC?

Yes would love to!

4. Makeup Makeovers states that you split your time between Dallas (The Big D) and New York City (The Big Apple). Are you still commuting between the two cities?

Yes I am still commuting, trying to travel less and less, but it is just part of my job!
5. Texas, and The Big D in particular, had been known for beauty queens and big hair. Are Texan ideals of fashion and beauty becoming more like those in New York?

No Dallas is definitely [its] own world! If I were to compare it style wise I would compare it to LA more than NY! But Dallas (Texas) definitely has some of the most beautiful women because they definitely love glamour!
[I asked this question as many Texan retailers have been absorbed into larger companies or have gone out of business altogether. Dillard’s acquired Joske’s over 20 years ago. Macy’s ultimately absorbed Foley’s. Frost Bros. has gone out of business, as has Sakowitz.]

6. What differences in fashion and beauty ideals might still remain between Texas and New York?

The biggest difference is in Texas women glam up to go to the grocery store and in NY they are not as concerned about it daily. But I can tell you from living in NY city it is hard to get from one place to the next looking good, where in Texas you just get in a car and go!
7. In Makeup Makeovers, the oval face is the aesthetic ideal. Creating the semblance of an oval face is the objective in the makeovers in the book. Some might object to singling out one face shape as the aesthetic ideal. To them, all face shapes are fine. How do you respond to these objections?

I am not trying to say every face shape is not beautiful! My favorite face shape is square! BUT the human eye is drawn to certain proportions (oval) so every face shape can look its most beautiful by softening certain areas.

8. While highlighting and contouring are great for the photographs in your books, is the sculpted look viable for daytime?

Definitely it looks completely natural and works for daytime when done correctly.
9. Your process for contouring is involved. It involves a true shade foundation, a foundation one shade lighter, and a foundation one shade deeper. For a woman heading out the door to work in the morning, this is too much effort. Later in the book, you state that bronzer can be used for contouring. What should a woman look for in a bronzer so that it doesn’t look muddy or orangey?

It should be matte, absolutely no shimmer! If you are ivory look for one more flesh toned, beige should be more brown tanned toned.
10. What are your upcoming projects?

Possibly a new book and some exciting new collaborations.

11. Are there any parting thoughts about makeup and beauty that you would like to share with our readers?

Just remember all women are beautiful, the right makeup shades and techniques just bring out that beauty!!!! Love who you are today and every day!!!!

More Than a Pretty Face interviews Sam Fine, Part 1

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Sam Fine, makeup artist extraordinaire

Some of my questions are based on your 1998 book Fine Beauty, in which you provide your life story. You had planned to become a fashion illustrator. You took a job at a cosmetics counter to supplement your income, and served as an assistant to makeup artists. Naomi Campbell provided you your first major break. You emphasized that your success is due to the many people who supported on your way to becoming the pre-eminent makeup artist that you are.


Fine Beauty by Sam Fine

I will also base my questions on the feature Sam’s Club in the May 2009 issue of Vogue.

1. There is no doubt that mainstream cosmetics lines have greatly expanded their options for women of African origin (I use this term, as “African-American” doesn’t seem to apply to women who were born and live outside the U.S.). Is there still a need for niche cosmetic lines? Is there anything that niche cosmetics line offer that mainstream cosmetics lines still don’t cover?

Niche brands tend to have better shade range and also products with higher pigment, which are what a woman of color truly needs.

2. Would you care to volunteer your thoughts about niche cosmetics lines? The least expensive that I can name are Zuri, Black Radiance, Astarte, and Posner. There’s also Queen Latifah’s Queen Collection for Cover Girl, Iman, Flori Roberts, Nacara (Canada), Fashion Fair, Sleek MakeUp (UK), and blackUp Paris.

I still use these brands on my clients – and probably always will. As I mentioned above, they not only provide great shade range but they also provide great coverage, such as Black Opal’s Flawless Concealer, Iman Cosmetics Eyeshadow in Tiger Eye, to name a few.

3. What do you think about mineral products such as sunscreen and mineral foundations for women of African origin? Many of these products are formulated with titanium oxide and zinc oxide, which can look ashen on darker skin tones. What alternatives do you recommend?

Women of color need more coverage than mineral makeup can really provide. Nevertheless, mineral makeup is great for women who are looking for lighter coverage.

4. What challenges do you face when doing makeup for Hi-Definition TV or other Hi-Def video?

You need to spend more time on skin – but I’m a perfectionist, and tend to spend a lot of time perfecting the skin to create a flawless canvas no matter the situation.

Continue to Part 2:

More Than a Pretty Face interviews Sam Fine, Part 2

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Sam’s Club in the May 2009 issue of Vogue

5. In Fine Beauty, you advocated neutral makeup, and in your appearance on CBS Morning News, you still advocate neutral makeup. Yet Liya Kebede and Chanel Iman are wearing vivid blush in the Vogue article. Is the distinction between everyday life and editorial or runway?

Yes, there is definitely a distinction between everyday life and editorial/runway. Editorial and runway give you the freedom to experiment with different, bold looks- looks that might not work for the everyday. For example, translating extreme rosy cheeks on the runway might mean using a little colorful eyeliner to brighten your look.

http://cnettv.cnet.com/av/video/cbsnews/atlantis2/player-dest.swf
Watch CBS Videos Online – Sam Fine on CBS Morning News

6. Which do you like best: print, runway, or “real life”? Why?

Definitely real life. I love working on real women- I grew up with a mom and three sisters and I definitely have an appreciation for how makeup translates on a “real woman’s” face. Just like the women in my DVD.


Iman hosts the launch party for Sam Fine’s DVD
L to R: Iman, Sam Fine, Deborah Cox, and Vanessa Williams: “real women”?

7. Do you want to create your cosmetics line? The Vogue article says that you put together custom kits for women. It seems like a logical progression for you to start your own makeup line.

You’ll have to stay tuned!

8. Are you planning to write another book?

Probably not. I’d like to work on expanding into more DVD’s, hopefully touching on everything that I wasn’t able to in the first.

9. It’s been 11 years since Fine Beauty was published. If you were to revise Fine Beauty, what would you change or update? Since you meant to be an illustrator, I think it would be great to include your illustrations. 🙂

I wouldn’t change a thing – I’m just extremely glad that there’s now a different form of media to reach the consumer, which is why I decided to do the DVD!

11. Are there any parting makeup tips that you would like to share with our readers?

Sure- here are some of my favorites.

Using a single layer of tissue, blot the excess oil from foundation, leaving the skin looking more natural and less made-up.

If you can’t find the perfect nude eyeshadow, use a pressed powder that matches your complexion instead.

A light dusting of loose powder over eyebrows makes them appear more natural and prevents them from fading throughout the day.