Fashion Fair Cosmetics Appoints Celebrity Makeup Artist Sam Fine as Creative Makeup Director.
This is welcome news. Some while ago, I posted an link on Facebook to a news item about Fashion Fair’s plans to make over its brand. One person said, “About time!”
I had the pleasure of interviewing Sam Fine for this blog: see Part 1 and Part 2 of my interview.
Makeup artist and beauty entrepreneur AJ Crimson has worked on projects with many artists and celebrities, including Fergie (more about her in the interview), Sean “Diddy” Combs, and Missy Elliott. His work is featured in fashion and lifestyle magazines worldwide. He is also founder and designer of Kissable Couture, a line he founded in association with co-creator and business partner Keisha Whitaker.
Of all things I do on the blog, I derive the greatest satisfaction from interviewing makeup artists and other creatives in the beauty business. I am pleased to present AJ’s responses to my questions:
1. Could you tell our readers more about your life than what is provided on your website (http://www.ajcrimson.com/)? For example, where did you grow up? Several other makeup artists whom I’ve interviewed told me that growing up in a family of women fostered their interest in makeup. Did your family inspire your interest in makeup?
I grew up in Detroit, but think this may be common knowledge; I have quite a few siblings. Although I was raised as an only child for many years. I have a really great family who are a lot of fun! I have always been imaginative, creative, and analytical. So the mix of creativity and business comes natural to me. I never set out to be a makeup artist but I do believe it was and still is a natural progress for me when compared to the many positions I have held within the entertainment industry. It all plays a role in the overall goal to be one of the leaders in business to revolutionize a new way of execution and delivery of personal interest services.
2. Your website says that you were “creatively self-taught” in the art of makeup. Tell us how you got involved in makeup and taught yourself how to do makeup.
After working for years as an artist development assistant, I often found myself in an art directing capacity. In that role, I need to make sure the vision for the shoot or project was coming to life. This sometimes meant re shopping for the stylist or asking that makeup changes be made. Eventually I went on to work as a stylist then makeup where I found the most relaxation and peace. I was just creating in silence. I never really had to speak which was calming, I became better at it and it grew to be a passion of mine. To transform someone into a striking beauty is an amazing journey from start to finish. The key is allowing the person to still shine through. I really have mastered it. You will see the difference with and without makeup but you will always see the client’s true self.
3. What do you consider to be your first big break as a makeup artist?
The first job that I keyed was with Fergie from the Black Eyed Peas for “Where is the Love.” I learned so much on this project from negotiating fee, hiring hair and makeup staff, working on set, learning to please the artist and the label all at once. Sometimes it can be hectic because everyone has opinions on what the visual should be.
4. Which is your favorite: editorial, celebrity, or video? Why?
I would have to say my 10 page story in Vogue. What a great experience to be on set with the greats in fashion. Anne Leibovitz, Gucci Westman, Grace Coddington, Natalia Vodianova, and Sean “Diddy” Combs. I respect them all so much for their contributions. Their stories and legacy in the industry is living history. I was a part of that moment. My credit in inscribed in a piece of history.
In Part 2 of the interview, AJ talks more about Kissable Couture and his other activities.
, after purchasing lip glosses from the Robert Jones Signature Collection from 3 Custom Color Specialists.
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| Makeup Makeovers |
In Makeup Makeovers
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| Robert Jones |
I do my homework before I interview makeup artists and entrepreneurs. After reading Makeup Makeovers
1. Let’s review your biography. You’re from Texas. You demonstrated talent for art, and then moved on to theater. It was a logical move to get involved in makeup. Growing up in a family of women also fostered your interest in makeup. I find it interesting that two other makeup artists [Sam Fine and Matin Maulawizada] whom I’ve interviewed also said that growing up in a family of women fostered their interest in makeup. What more would you like to share with our readers about your background and career as a makeup artist?
I have worked with so many beautiful women in my career (celebrities, model, the girl next door) and am always inspired by how makeup can boost their confidence and bring out their true beauty. Let’s face it, it is a lot of fun!!!!!
2. How did you enter into partnership with Three Custom Color Specialists (3CC) to create the Robert Jones Signature Collection of blushers and lip glosses? Trae said that either people approach them with an idea, or that 3CC might approach someone with an idea that they’d like to work on.
I felt there was a lack in what I was wanting in glosses and blushes, having heard of 3CC and what they can do, I went to them for help in realizing my vision. Trae liked what we created and asked if they could launch a small collection.
3. Your book Makeup Makeovers presents a well-edited collection of 13 eye shadows that serves the gamut of skin tones. You already have a line of makeup brushes sold through robert jones beauty. Would you launch this eye shadow collection, perhaps in partnership with 3CC?
Yes would love to!
4. Makeup Makeovers
Yes I am still commuting, trying to travel less and less, but it is just part of my job!
5. Texas, and The Big D in particular, had been known for beauty queens and big hair. Are Texan ideals of fashion and beauty becoming more like those in New York?
No Dallas is definitely [its] own world! If I were to compare it style wise I would compare it to LA more than NY! But Dallas (Texas) definitely has some of the most beautiful women because they definitely love glamour!
[I asked this question as many Texan retailers have been absorbed into larger companies or have gone out of business altogether. Dillard’s acquired Joske’s over 20 years ago. Macy’s ultimately absorbed Foley’s. Frost Bros. has gone out of business, as has Sakowitz.]
6. What differences in fashion and beauty ideals might still remain between Texas and New York?
The biggest difference is in Texas women glam up to go to the grocery store and in NY they are not as concerned about it daily. But I can tell you from living in NY city it is hard to get from one place to the next looking good, where in Texas you just get in a car and go!
7. In Makeup Makeovers
I am not trying to say every face shape is not beautiful! My favorite face shape is square! BUT the human eye is drawn to certain proportions (oval) so every face shape can look its most beautiful by softening certain areas.
8. While highlighting and contouring are great for the photographs in your books, is the sculpted look viable for daytime?
Definitely it looks completely natural and works for daytime when done correctly.
9. Your process for contouring is involved. It involves a true shade foundation, a foundation one shade lighter, and a foundation one shade deeper. For a woman heading out the door to work in the morning, this is too much effort. Later in the book, you state that bronzer can be used for contouring. What should a woman look for in a bronzer so that it doesn’t look muddy or orangey?
It should be matte, absolutely no shimmer! If you are ivory look for one more flesh toned, beige should be more brown tanned toned.
10. What are your upcoming projects?
Possibly a new book and some exciting new collaborations.
11. Are there any parting thoughts about makeup and beauty that you would like to share with our readers?
Just remember all women are beautiful, the right makeup shades and techniques just bring out that beauty!!!! Love who you are today and every day!!!!
Sam Fine, makeup artist extraordinaire
Some of my questions are based on your 1998 book Fine Beauty
Fine Beauty
I will also base my questions on the feature Sam’s Club in the May 2009 issue of Vogue.
1. There is no doubt that mainstream cosmetics lines have greatly expanded their options for women of African origin (I use this term, as “African-American” doesn’t seem to apply to women who were born and live outside the U.S.). Is there still a need for niche cosmetic lines? Is there anything that niche cosmetics line offer that mainstream cosmetics lines still don’t cover?
Niche brands tend to have better shade range and also products with higher pigment, which are what a woman of color truly needs.
2. Would you care to volunteer your thoughts about niche cosmetics lines? The least expensive that I can name are Zuri, Black Radiance, Astarte, and Posner. There’s also Queen Latifah’s Queen Collection for Cover Girl, Iman, Flori Roberts, Nacara (Canada), Fashion Fair, Sleek MakeUp (UK), and blackUp Paris.
I still use these brands on my clients – and probably always will. As I mentioned above, they not only provide great shade range but they also provide great coverage, such as Black Opal’s Flawless Concealer, Iman Cosmetics Eyeshadow in Tiger Eye
3. What do you think about mineral products such as sunscreen and mineral foundations for women of African origin? Many of these products are formulated with titanium oxide and zinc oxide, which can look ashen on darker skin tones. What alternatives do you recommend?
Women of color need more coverage than mineral makeup can really provide. Nevertheless, mineral makeup is great for women who are looking for lighter coverage.
4. What challenges do you face when doing makeup for Hi-Definition TV or other Hi-Def video?
You need to spend more time on skin – but I’m a perfectionist, and tend to spend a lot of time perfecting the skin to create a flawless canvas no matter the situation.
Continue to Part 2:
Sam’s Club in the May 2009 issue of Vogue
5. In Fine Beauty, you advocated neutral makeup, and in your appearance on CBS Morning News, you still advocate neutral makeup. Yet Liya Kebede and Chanel Iman are wearing vivid blush in the Vogue article. Is the distinction between everyday life and editorial or runway?
Yes, there is definitely a distinction between everyday life and editorial/runway. Editorial and runway give you the freedom to experiment with different, bold looks- looks that might not work for the everyday. For example, translating extreme rosy cheeks on the runway might mean using a little colorful eyeliner to brighten your look.
http://cnettv.cnet.com/av/video/cbsnews/atlantis2/player-dest.swf
Watch CBS Videos Online – Sam Fine on CBS Morning News
6. Which do you like best: print, runway, or “real life”? Why?
Definitely real life. I love working on real women- I grew up with a mom and three sisters and I definitely have an appreciation for how makeup translates on a “real woman’s” face. Just like the women in my DVD.
Iman hosts the launch party for Sam Fine’s DVD
L to R: Iman, Sam Fine, Deborah Cox, and Vanessa Williams: “real women”?
7. Do you want to create your cosmetics line? The Vogue article says that you put together custom kits for women. It seems like a logical progression for you to start your own makeup line.
You’ll have to stay tuned!
8. Are you planning to write another book?
Probably not. I’d like to work on expanding into more DVD’s, hopefully touching on everything that I wasn’t able to in the first.
9. It’s been 11 years since Fine Beauty was published. If you were to revise Fine Beauty, what would you change or update? Since you meant to be an illustrator, I think it would be great to include your illustrations. 🙂
I wouldn’t change a thing – I’m just extremely glad that there’s now a different form of media to reach the consumer, which is why I decided to do the DVD!
11. Are there any parting makeup tips that you would like to share with our readers?
Sure- here are some of my favorites.
Using a single layer of tissue, blot the excess oil from foundation, leaving the skin looking more natural and less made-up.
If you can’t find the perfect nude eyeshadow, use a pressed powder that matches your complexion instead.
A light dusting of loose powder over eyebrows makes them appear more natural and prevents them from fading throughout the day.
Cold Cream 'n' Roses 